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Home > Travelogues > 2017 Travelogues Index > Silver City Highway Packsaddle

Broken Hill to Tibooburra via the Silver City Highway, New South Wales - Packsaddle Roadhouse and Milparinka Historic Village

 
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Heading north on the Silver City Highway we stopped at Packsaddle Roadhouse, 174 kilometres north of Broken Hill.

A repeater service operated by the roadhouse gives phone and internet reception within the roadhouse, as service is poor along this section of the Silver City Highway.  

The historic gold mining town of Milparinka is a must to visit.  Milparinka is probably a Wangkumara word meaning 'water may be found here', no doubt referring to Evelyn Creek; the only permanent water in the area and were the town was established due to this water source.

Packsaddle Gymkhana and Bikekhana is held each Easter at the sports grounds a kilometre or so from the roadhouse.

With an outback atmosphere, delightful host Mia runs a licenced bar and restaurant that is well known for good food and great hospitality. From the enticing menu of takeaway foods, the large burgers we chose were so delicious, with one making an evening meal for both of us, that we went back for two more the next day. 

James Poole was assistant to Captain Charles Sturt on this Central Australian Expedition of 1844-46.  He suffered scurvy while at Depot Glen and was eventually bedridden.  He was never to recover, and died while leading a returning party of half the men in Adelaide.  The party reassembled and buried Poole on the 17th July, 1845. 

Beside the road into Milparinka is sculpture cairn, built from recycled sandstone by Broken Hill artist Geoff De Main, built as a tribute to the pioneers and early settlers of this area. 

With patches of sealed and unsealed road, it was an easy drive north towards Tibooburra.   Since our visit the remaining patches have all been sealed. 

With motel units and cabins, powered and unpowered camp sites, there is also vacant land across the road where other independent campers stayed overnight free. 

A Cairn

2003

Sculpture by Geoff DeMain

 

In 1845 Captain Charles Sturt's Inland Expedition found themselves trapped by drought. They spent almost six months encamped at Depot Glen, during which time they constructed a Cairn on top of Mount Poole.

 

In the 1880s, gold was discovered in the area.  This time it was the settlers who used local stones to build homes.

 

This public artwork is a tribute to those people.

 

Year of the Outback NSW

Broken Hill City Council

We buried Mr Poole under a Grevillea...his initials, and the year, are cut in it above the grave, J.P. 1845, and he now sleeps in the desert.  (Sturt)

On his expedition north looking for the inland sea he felt certain existed, explorer Charles Sturt was stranded at Depot Glen for six months with only a diminishing waterhole on nearby Preservation Creek, due to drought conditions in 1844-1845.  

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Sturt build a cairn on top of what is now known as Mount Poole (Red Hill), which became a memorial for party member James (John) Poole. 

 

Depot Glen and Poole’s grave on Mount Poole Station can be visited on a drive from Milparinka. 

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Aussie Towns - Milparinka

Signs on site

Read more about our visit to Milparinka on the next page
Depot Glen
 
Sturt here wrote I would rather that my bones had been left to bleach in the desert than have yielded an inch of ground I had gained at so much expense
 
His camp The Depot was adjacent to here, near the last remaining waterhole, during their drought enforced stay (January - July 1945). 
 
From here several exploratory trips were made to the East, North and West.
Milparinka
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