The Gibb River Road 2008 – we continue our tour of El Questro station in the North East section

El Questro Gorge is a narrow gorge filled with lush greenery and lined with steep orange cliffs.  This vegetation is a remnant of an ancient rain forest, and some of the cliffs are lined with ferns.

The walk trail criss-crosses a creek line on a stony floor, and leads to a deeper pool suitable for swimming.  A continuing walk from this point involves climbing rocks past this pool following the swim.  We did not continue. 

On the way to Moonshine gorge, we crossed a wide stream then watched a lady in a red Suzuki Jimny make the return crossing. She looked very apprehensive tackling the water in her little ‘swimminy Jimny’ and said she was equally as terrified as when she had made the crossing earlier in the day.

Moonshine Gorge was a much wider gorge with walls lower and less scenic than El Questro Gorge.  Walking was slow and not easy on the large stones, and there were several slippery water crossings.  The latter part of the walk involves a climb to a lookout point, and follows the top back to the car park.  Due to the heat in the middle of the day we did not take this more exposed part of the walk, as recommended by the walk trail guide. 

The Lookout Point on the way to Pigeon Hole gives views of the Pentecost River.  This view looking south is just downstream from the confluence with the Chamberlain River.  The Chamberlain River cuts through the hills in the background, to form the Elgee cliffs, which stretch for over a hundred kilometres.

Emma Gorge is one place not to be missed.  The main pool is high in the gap seen from the road in to the Emma Gorge Resort. It is an easy day trip from the El Questro camping area. 

The climb is not difficult, but involves some clambering over large boulders.   

As much of the rock is ‘ripple rock’ being sandstone formed under water and showing what are ‘fossilised ripples’, this is easy for walking over.

The walk traverses grassland and woodland in the lower section, coming into rainforest in the higher reaches. 

The water which is always shaded from the sun by the cliff faces is extremely cold, and it is not easy spend long swimming. As I swam a lap around the pool, I tried to find a warm spring entering the water which I had read about.  At one side, I found two places where a small amount of water entering for the side near the water level was not quite as cold as the rest of the pool, but still cold water.   With no relief from expected warm water, I continued on around the pool, with very cold water droplets falling down on me as I swam under the main waterfall before returning to escape the cold cold water.  

We took the late afternoon cruise on the Chamberlain River.  Boating and fishing is permitted along much of this eight kilometre long pool.   There is a sanctuary at the end of this pool where were able to feed and see large Barramundi and small fish, including the high spitting Archer Fish. 

The sandstone cliffs have been dated at 1.8 billion years of age. 

The rocks which form these cliffs are older than the Himalayas or the Andes.  The only fossils found in these ancient rocks are of Stromatolites formed by cyanobacteria; one of the earliest forms of life on Earth.  Stromatolites are the most common fossil in rocks older than 543 million years and may even go back as far as 3.5 billion years. 

The sun was setting on the cliffs on the return, when champagne and savouries were served.

Branco’s Lookout overlooks the confluence of the Chamberlain and Pentecost Rivers and is on the opposite side of the river to Lookout Point where we had started the day.  This is a popular sunset viewing spot for both campers from the Station Township, and for guests at the exclusive accommodation built partially cantilevered over a large pool on the Chamberlain River. 

The Chamberlain River crossing to reach this lookout is wide and shallow but very rocky, particularly as our wheel base is wider than most four wheel drives. 

Soon after leaving El Questro we reached the end of the wonderful scenic Gibb River Road and central Kimberley region.  Time to pump up the tyres ready to meet the Highway between Wyndham and Kununurra. 

The Chamberlain River enters at the bend, but in this picture is obscured by vegetation.  The roof of the well publicised resort accommodation overlooking the river can just be seen.