Australia So Much to See

The Gibb River Road and the West Kimberley 2008 - we start by visiting Geikie Gorge, Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge, then joining the Gibb River Road and visiting Bells Falls.

Early next morning the rising sun caught the surrounding rocks which dwarfed our caravan.   Boab trees were silhouetted against the dawn sky.

In 1889 Jandamarra (known as Pigeon) was arrested for sheep spearing, but recognising his skills as a horseman, the Derby Police employed him.  Together with another Aboriginal tracker named Captain, Police Constable Richardson and Pigeon formed a very successful unit, capturing a large number of Aborigines

In this pool over seventy fresh water crocodiles can be seen basking on the sand banks, or floating with their dragon like tail spikes above the water.

Starting early in the morning, we took the seven kilometre return walk through gorge, past towering orange cliffs, colonies of noisy fruit bats, and various birds.  Marine fossils can be found in the wall of the gorge.

We spent over three weeks touring from Derby to Kununurra, seeing scenic and fascinating areas.  This travelogue takes us from Derby to the Kalumburu turn off which is roughly half was along the Gibb River Road.  The Gibb River Road runs fromDerby to a point between Wyndham and Kununurra and was constructed as a road during the 1950s to transport cattle from the stations to the abattoirs and ports at Wyndham and Derby.

We took the Department of Parks and Wildlife boat tour of Geikie Gorge, as the only way to view the gorge is by boat.  See Schedule.  The white area is that mostly under water during the wet season, although levels can vary greatly from year to year.   A mixture of grey, orange and yellow can be seen on the walls which rise up sharply from the water.  Erosion near the water level results in fascinating shapes, looking like carved marble pillars or icebergs.

The prisoners, all known to Jandamarra and many being related to him, told Pigeon that the Bunuba country was about to be invaded by Europeans, with three white stockmen bringing 500 cattle up Windjana Gorge to establish a cattle station. 

They set up an ambush hiding in caves along Windjana Gorge and shot two of the three stockmen who were bringing the cattle. Jandamarra trained his growing group of followers to use guns, obtained from raids on police stations.  Reinforcements of police were sent from Roebourne to join local police to hunt down these ‘outlaws’.  At one stage Jandamarra was wounded and presumed dead, however he hid and recuperated in Bat Cave (now known as Tunnel Creek).  For two more years Jandamarra lead raids on the police stations before being fatally shot.

Travelling a little further we joined the Gibb River Road near the Lennard River Bridge and continued in a roughly north easterly direction.  Passing through Yammera Gap in the Napier Range there is a distinctive “Queen Victoria’s Head” rock formation. Inglis Gap is at the highest point of the King Leopold Range (since re-named the Wunaamin-Miliwundi Range) crossing.  From here the country changes again.   We chose not to go into the Lennard River gorge, as the road and small parking area may have been awkward for us to access with our caravan (although others with similar rigs have).

The vast Kimberley country, as seen when crossing the King Leopold Range (since re-named the Wunaamin-Miliwundi Range). 

Next stop was at Silent Grove (Dulundi), the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) camp site for Bell Gorge (Dalmanyi). Both Windjana and Silent Grove are good DPaW campsites in lovely locations.  Next morning a short drive and a walk took us to the picturesque Bell Creek Falls. 

To cross the falls involved a walk through shallow fast flowing water at the top of the falls, followed by a rocky climb and descent to a vantage point to view the falls, and a further climb down a rocky face to a large pool suitable for swimming.  

Another vista from the King Leopold Range  (since re-named the Wunaamin-Miliwundi Range).