Australia So Much to See

Purnululu – the spectacular Bungle Bungle Range 2008.  We see beehive shaped striped domes at the southern end of the Purnululu National Park.

We moved on to the Warlardi campsite towards the southern end of the park, and spent much of the afternoon watching the numerous birds in the trees around us.  

This Northern Rosella was eating nectar from the flowers in a Bauhinia tree.

A Blue-winged Kookaburra watched us without any fear.

With a group of Corellas in a nearby tree, we knew we would be woken in the morning at first light.

Cheeky Pied Butcher Birds whistled and serenaded us.

Near the entrance to the cavern is evidence of a rock slide.  Looking up, there was a sheer surface, where huge slabs of rocks had slid down.  Colouration on the rock surface shows it was not a recent occurrence. 

A termite mound looks like a large grey bird

We had completed all the short walks currently opened, although further walk trails are being planned for the future.

Even the rocks forming the sides of the cavern had shape of cathedral buttresses. 

Looking back through the opening at the entrance to the “Cathedral”.  

Everyone in the camp was up and out into the cold morning air as the Corellas started their ‘time to get up’ calls at 5.30 am. We set out to see the features of the southern portion of Purnululu.  Here the hills are the well known striped dome shapes, with their distinctive bands of colour.  Even in the shadows of early morning, the continuity of the stripes linking the domes can be clearly seen. 

The Domes walk is any easy loop through typical dome shaped formations. 

Continuing on from the Domes is the walk to the spectacular Cathedral Gorge.  It is cave like, with a sloping ceiling and small opening overhead.  As we approached, someone was singing, and his voice echoed down the valley as we entered.  It was a magical moment.  A crowd had gathered, enchanted by the entertainment offered that morning.  The acoustics of the rock chamber rivalled that of a good opera theatre.  There was a small pool remaining on the white sandy floor.  The black stains in the background are from a seasonal waterfall.

Piccaninny Creek runs for some distance through Purnululu, exiting to the south where it joins the Ord River.   Here it is seen as a light grey line of dry rock heading south from the main part of the range from a small lookout.  Some of this area had recently been burnt. 

The grey creek bed is heavily eroded.  We did not take the long walk through Piccaninny Gorge.  This can be undertaken as far as the walker chooses, in anything between two and seven days.  

Conical shapes along the Piccaninny creek line.

Sunlight brought out the colours on the domes as we left the southern walks. 

We returned to the highway and headed north, with the scenery in the afternoon looking different to the morning light on our drive south two days previous. 

At Warmun, we obtained permission to enter the Warmun settlement to visit the Warmun Art Centre.   

Established in 1988 and originally housed at the old Turkey Creek Post Office, a new studio and galley was opened in 2007.   Each canvas is painted using traditional ochre and natural pigments collected in the Kimberley. Artists are adept at making their own paints and mixing ochre into a full range of colours. The work draws on traditional Ngarrangkarni (Dreaming) stories as well as contemporary events and artists’ life experiences.

The Warmun Art Centre provides artists with economic independence and the opportunity to share their Gija culture and country with visitors.  Exhibitions have been held throughout Australia as well as overseas.   Works of art are purchased by major galleries, and some works by well known Aboriginal artists such as the late Queenie McKenzie and the late Rover Thomas command very high prices.  

Dots predominate in most of the paintings, and many include dome shaped representations of Purnululu. Taking traditional styles of ceremonial painting onto canvas and creating an art industry has become widespread across northern Australia. Warmun was one of the first to have a community run centre where all the profits are returned to the community.  

I chose this Bardee Grub painting by artist Betty Conway, who now resides and paints in the Alice Springs area.  The U shape represents a person sitting down, with a digging stick alongside.  Her use of earthy colours covering the entire canvas really appeals to me.  This painting incorporates traditional shapes more than the contemporary paintings being produced by many of the artists today.